Low Voltage Remote Mains Switch

This circuit allows a 240V mains appliance to be controlled remotely via low-voltage cabling and a pushbutton switch. The mains appliance (in this case, a light bulb) is switched with a suitably-rated relay. All of the electronics is housed in an ABS box located in proximity to the appliance. The pushbutton switch and plugpack are located remotely and can be wired up with 3-core alarm cable or similar. Cable lengths of 20m or more are feasible with this arrangement. When the switch (S1) is pressed, the input (pin 8) of IC1c is briefly pulled low via the 10mF capacitor, which is initially discharged.

The output (pin 10) immediately goes high and this is inverted and fed back to the second input (pin 9) via another gate in the quad NAND package (IC1d). In conjunction with the 1MW resistor and 470nF capacitor, IC1d eliminates the effects of contact "bounce" by ensuring that IC1c’s output remains high for a predetermined period. The output from IC1c drives the clock input of a 4013 D-type flip-flop (IC2). The flipflop is wired for a "toggle" function by virtue of the Q-bar connection back to the D input. A 2.2MW resistor and 100nF capacitor improve circuit noise immunity. Each time the switch is pressed, the flipflop output (pin 13) toggles, switching the transistor (Q1) and relay on or off. Note that all mains wiring must be properly installed and completely insulated so that there is no possibility of it contacting the low-voltage side of the circuit.

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Typical Ceiling Remote Control Wired Shown Wiring

Way Wiring Ceiling Fan Remote Two Wire Hookup 3 Way Ceiling Jpg.



Way Wiring Ceiling Fan Remote Two Wire Hookup Ceiling Fan Remote Jpg.



Ceiling Fan Wiring Png.



Wiring For A Ceiling Fan With Dual Switches Electrical Diy.



Ceiling Fan Wiring Interior And Exterior Design.



Typical Ceiling Fan Remote Control Is Wired As Shown In This Wiring.



Ceiling Fan Wiring Diagram.



Ceiling Fan And Light Wiring Diagram 7.



Wiring Up A New Ceiling Fan Electrical Diy Chatroom Diy Home.



Ceiling Fan Wiring Circuit Style 9.

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Remote controlled appliance switch circuit

Here is a versatile remote controlled appliance switch that can ON or OFF any appliance connected to it using a TV remote.IR remote sensor IC TSOP 1738 is used for receiving the signal. Normally when no signal is falling on IC3 the output of it will be high.This makes Q1 OFF.When a signal of 38 KHz from the TV remote falls on the IC3 its output goes low.This makes Q1 conduct and a negative pulse is obtained at pin 2 of IC 1 NE 555.Due to this IC1 wired as a monostable multivibrator produces a 4 Sec long high signal at its out put.This high out put is the clock for IC 2 which is wired as a Flipflop and of , its two outputs pin 3
goes low and pin 2 goes high.The high output at pin 2 is amplified to drive the relay .For the next signal the outputs of IC2 toggles state. Result, we get a relay toggling on each press on the remote.Any appliance connected to this circuit can be switched ON or OFF.

* Before wiring the circuit make sure that the carrier frequency of the
TV remote you have is 38 kHz.For that wire the sensor part only ,point your
remote to the TSOP1738 and press any switch.If out put of TSOP1738 goes
low then OK, your remote is of 38Khz type.Nothing to worry almost all TV
remote are of this type.

* You can use any switch of the remote because for any switch the code only changes,
the carrier frequency remains same.We need this carrier frequency only.

* Assemble the circuit on a good quality PCB or common board.

* The appliance can be connected through NO or NC and C contacts of the relay .

* Use a regulated 6V power supply for the circuit.

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Simple Remote Doorbell Warning Switch Circuit

This circuit should only be used with the solenoid type chime doorbells, the electronic type that play tunes will not work here. This is the simple circuit design.


The basic principle work is the hardest part for this circuit was the title. It is quite easy to miss the sound of a doorbell if you are watching the television, this circuit gets round the problem by providing a visual indication, i.e. a lamp. As an alternative, a LED could also be used. You could just parallel a lamp across the doorbell, but this would mean extra drain from the doorbell batteries or transformer.

Using a series resistor R1 actually reduces current flow, and if run from batteries, will give them a longer life. The value of R1 is chosen so that about 0.6 to 0.7 volts is dropped across it, and the doorbell should still ring. I used a combination of a 22 ohm resistor in parallel with a 50 ohm. The doorbell still rang and circuit operated correctly. I used to have an electromechanical counter that registered each time when someone pressed the switch.

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